The Gota Patti work in a Rajasthani bridal lehnga sets it apart from what the brides round the country wear on their wedding day. It is a series of metal embroidery crafted through the applique technique intrinsically in a strip of silver or gold or multi-colouredzari ribbons of varied width. The motifs are nature inspired consisting of anything from leaves, flowers, animals, peacock, parrots or elephants.
Although the lehnga gives a rich heavy look but is lightweight. The base of the lehnga may generally be in silk with smooth strings, conventional patterns and enthralling botanical designs weaved into the circumference of the elaborate ghaghra.
Gota Patti work refers to a type of embroidery which uses the appliqué technique to create intricate designs edging the traditional sarees and lehngas.This design embellishment traces back its origins in Rajasthan during the Mughal era wherein the Rajput royals adorned clothes which had gotapatti work crafted on the royal garments with a silken base.
What All Does Go Into The Making Of Gota?
Gota is essentially a band of metallic ribbon consisting of metal coated weft yarn while fibers like cotton and polyster are used to make the warp yarn. The work spreads itself across various districts of Rajasthan; from Ajmer, Kota to Bikaner and Udaipur.
There is a prevalence of natural motifs like animals, birds and human figures which constitute the patterns on the patti. Some of the traditional motifs which are nature inspired designed on the fabrics are peacocks, sparrows, parrots, elephants etc.
While there is no dearth of some of the contemporary patterns like palanquin, checkerboard, paisley which reiterate the essence of Rajasthan. These motifs are carefully structured into butas and stitched to the fabrics through hemming.
Gota Patti is also known as AariTari or Zardozi and perfectly complements the Kundan and MeenakariJewellery adorned by the Rajasthani womenfolk due to the striking similarities in color theme and patterns.
The Base fabric is generally Chiffon, Satin or Georgette which maybe solid dyed or printed. The style of printing on these garments generally adopted by the artisans is either direct using wooden blocks or resist style ie. Using the tie and dye techniques.
The modus operandi to carry out the gota work on a fabric is by using a tightly stretched wooden frame and attaching the patti with the metallic wire called Zari, twirled and attached to the ribbon. This metal strand is then attached to the fabric through chain stitch.
The Gota ribbon is cut, folded and attached to the fabric through thread and needles and a myriad of different materials like Sitara, beads, sequins, dori, stones etc. are used to exemplify the beauty of the designs.
The fringed border on the edges of the base fabric is called kinari or lappekakalam. The Gota Patti ribbon is cut , folded and patched over fabric with the help of thread and needle by chain stitch .The other materials used with Gota Patti are dory, sitara, beads, sequins, stones etc. The edging of base fabric made by the fringed border is known as kinari or lappekakalam.